The Cannes Quick Guide

The Palais during Cannes 2009

The Palais during Cannes 2009

Producer Noah Harlan, a longtime attendee of the Cannes Film Festival, presents an on-the-ground guide to the glitziest event on the film calendar.

For 10 days every spring the entire film industry grinds to halt and attention turns to what was once a small fishing village on the Mediterranean coast of France and now is the home to the most important film festival in the world: the Festival Du Cannes.

Cannes (the identity of the town and the festival are now merged), to the first-timer is a daunting place. From the moment the festival begins the streets are filled with crowds from early in the morning until sunrise and learning to navigate is an experience unto itself. Here, for the first timer or the outsider, is a quick overview.

The town of Cannes is oriented towards the water and the long, curving, four-lane road which runs the length of the beach, called the Boulevard de la Croisette (or just “The Croisette”). Dividing the Croisette is an enormous bunker-like building, jutting out into the bay, called the Palais des Festivals (the Palais). The Palais houses the theaters for the Official Selection with the Salle Lumiere on the left – home to the Competition black-tie premieres and the smaller Salle Debussy for Un Certain Regard. Inside the Palais is a labyrinth. Rising through the floors on the front side of the building you’ll find the press rooms, offices, lounges and hidden up on back of the roof are the locations for the Festival TV interviews and the official photographs.

Descending into the basement will draw you into the heart of the Marché du Film (The Market) where tens of thousands of films are being bought & sold each year. For the first timer, giving yourself an hour or two to just browse the stalls and see what people are doing is a must. It is sobering to see how many films are made every year and a stark reminder of how hard you have to work to make one that stands out from the crowd.

Lining the Croisette, facing the water, are a series of Grand Hotels that serve as hosts for much of the activities of festival attendees outside of the Palais des Festivals. Starting directly across from the Palais, you have the Majestic, The Gray D’Albion, The Grand Hotel, The Noga Hilton, The Carlton, The Miramar and the Martinez. Many of the suites in these hotels are taken over as temporary offices by sales companies from around the world, in particular The Majestic requires a festival badge to get past the front gate. But once inside, some of the best schmoozing and face-spotting happens at the bars and restaurants. In the morning swing through the lobby of the Majestic and grab the daily periodicals. At lunch, check out the Carlton terrace. Late in the afternoon a visit to the front lawn of the Grand Hotel. At night, slip into the piano bar at the Martinez or, if you have the connections, find your way into the hidden speakeasy in the back of the Carlton!

And really, after the meetings and the screenings, the secret to enjoying Cannes is knowing the spots for a good meal or a nice drink. Here’s a quick rundown of some situations & suggestions:

You’re running late for a screening and want a quick dinner:

Le Crillon, 4 Rue Jean de Riouffe

The food is simple but the staff knows that if you are in Black Tie you’re probably in a rush and they get you out in no time. You want find any celebs here, but if you study your market guide, don’t be surprised to see a key French buyer grabbing a last-minute meal.

You’re looking for some old-world French charm:

Head to the Vieux Port (the old Port) and find a place up the windy Rue Saint-Antoine. It’s a quick walk but you feel like you’re out of “the business” and on vacation for a few minutes. Find a place where you can sit out on the road (there aren’t any cars, the road is too narrow!) and you’re sure to see someone you need to meet coming down the cobblestones.

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